The Joy of Café Madriz
(Note: Café Madriz is now permanently closed. The chef has relocated to elsewhere in Montana.)
After a long day of traveling from the Midwest, my partner and I venture from our hotel in West Yellowstone, Montana to have a leisurely meal and plan for our national park vacation. The street is empty except for a small red fox across the road that follows us until we reach a lively looking place whose sign invites us to “Eat, Drink, & be Merry.” We quickly learn that we can drink and be merry, but not eat. The kitchen is closed. It's 9 p.m. We leave and walk past many locked restaurants that tease us with views of empty tables. Our Plan B to buy shriveled food under a heat lamp at a gas station fails. The employee turns off the lights as we approach. There is no food joy for us tonight.
Our experience provides a cultural lesson. The town is full of restaurants where hard-working staff revive hundreds of tourists strained by fatigue and hunger daily. Between mid-May and September, restaurants run a cooking and serving marathon with no respite. Every minute is a sprint. Work days are long. There is an implied contract. The restaurants meet the needs and wants of most visitors. In return, visitors empty the streets and cease demands early.
We learn to leave the park early each day to return for dinner. Where to eat is based on crowds and wait time, not food. Bison burgers, pizza, and Chinese food rule in places where mounted animal heads and Western memorabilia line the walls. We're served by college students from around the world, lured by the opportunity to learn in challenging seasonal kitchens and play in the majestic natural wonders.
Hope for a memorable dining experience dims until we find Café Madriz. The words of Chef and owner Elena deDiego on her website (https://www.cafemadriz.com/) are like a conversation with a friend. She talks about why it is “Madriz,” not “Madrid.” She describes the importance of fresh ingredients and the influence of her grandmother on her cooking. I imagine Chef Elena as middle-aged, and am surprised at the picture of the young, athletic-looking woman who describes the Café Madriz experience as "... all about the food, the wine and the company.”
We make a reservation. Our table is ready when we arrive. The dining room is fully prepared for the "food, wine and company" trilogy. Comfortable wooden tables and chairs, wooden floors, and yellow walls are background for colorful Spanish posters, hand fans, and art. The welcoming ambiance invites us to relax and stay awhile.
The menu echoes the website's lively tone, guiding the reader with passion and expertise. There is attention to dietary wishes of guests, with many vegetarian and vegan options. Spanish wines, handmade Sangria, and local craft beers are offered. We choose a bottle of white, Vina Gormaz Verdejo. D.O. Rueda, described as "100% Verdejo. Clean aromas of ripe kiwi and fresh quince carry with intensity over the palate to a dry finish that will prove versatile for first course pairings. Try with shellfish. A medium light wine and bright value for everyday enjoyment! Glass $6.25 / Bottle $25.00.”
We resume our charming read. If there were literary awards for menu narratives, Café Madriz would win. We create our picks.
Best sidebar. "History of Tapas”
Best historical surprise. "Sopa de Cebolla y Alemendras: Delicate onion and almond soup based on a traditional recipe dating back to the 16th century. Finished with a toasted bread slice topped with parmesan cheese.”
Best unexpected herb and cheese pairing. "Cabra al Romero: Aged for a minimum period of four months, this cheese is made from pasteurized goat's milk. Semi-firm, creamy, buttery, slightly salty and smooth. Wrapped in a crust with natural rosemary leaf.”
Best “heads-up” celebrating anticipation. “Paella…PLEASE ALLOW 30 MINUTES FOR PREPARATION AND ‘RESTING.’ THIS ALLOWS FOR THE RICE TO SETTLE AND THE FLAVORS TO BLEND.”
Best craft beer names honoring local culture and people. Big Sky Moose Drool, Big Sky Trout Slayer, Madison River Salmon Fly Honey Rye, Red Lodge Bent Nail IPA (“Tribute to the hard-working contractors who make their living in Red Lodge, MT.”)
We select, ordering the Sopa de Cebolla y Alemendras, Cabra al Romero, and Paella—the classic rice dish made with chicken, shrimp, calamari, and mussels. The dishes are as described, the eating as delightful as the reading. We finish our meal sharing Crema Catalana, the Spanish creme brûlée, my favorite dessert.
We leave with all the joy of Café Madriz in us.